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Kebabs, Fragrant Biryani and Much More: A Historic Indian City Gains Recognition on the UNESCO Culinary List.

Aromatic rice dish cooking via the classic Dum method
Biryani in Lucknow is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the vessel's cover securely closed with a paste of flour.

Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.

The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its superb cuisine.

A Global Honor

Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".

The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.

Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.

A City Defined by Food

The honor for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".

With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an immense love for food.

"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
Tender kebabs being served
Lucknow is famous for its succulent kebabs.

A Royal Culinary Legacy

The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.

These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.

It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.

But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.

Beyond Kebabs and Biryani

In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).

However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.

The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.

Fluffy dessert a winter specialty
The city showcases special treats for the season, such as Makkhan Malai, a unique frothy dessert, during winter months.

Time-Tested Food Joints

Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden gems that are wildly popular with the locals.

In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.

To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).

Popular tea stall serving masala chai
A legendary tea stall is known for its creamy masala chai.

Ensuring Legacy Continues

The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.

On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.

A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.

Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.

The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to learn these narratives and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.

By

Mr. William Morton DDS

Liam van der Berg is a passionate sports journalist with over a decade of experience covering football, tennis, and motorsports.

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